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Some recent and not so recent research has prompted my writing this article. Over the past two decades horseshoe manufactures have been inadvertently or perhaps purposely setting trends that could be proving to be detrimental to even those horses that go barefoot. You read it right; trend set by horseshoe manufacturers could have an effect on your barefoot horse. Not through their production of horseshoes, but rather by the style of shoes that they produce.

Thinking back to when I began as a farrier almost 25 years ago, I can remember making my weekly pilgrimage to the local farriers supply store to purchase the required horseshoe inventory to stock my shoeing truck for the week. I would calculate the number of pairs and the sizes I would need for the coming weeks’ work. As my business increased, it became more difficult finding the time to make those weekly trips, and I soon found myself buying inventory for the month.

Establishing a horseshoe inventory was pretty straightforward. I, like most farriers at that time, would buy fullered, punched keg shoes by the case, in the most common sizes 00, 0, 1, 2, 3. The term keg shoe defines the most common of machine made horseshoes. The keg shoe comes in a generic oval shape and was called the “keg shoe” because they were originally shipped in kegs (barrels). This type of shoe almost always needed to be shaped to fit the hind or front foot of the horse. All too often the hurried farrier simply would spread, or close the shoe to fit a foot, and then shape the foot to the shoe., rather than the shoe to the foot.

This practice was likely the first in the beginning of what would become trend, started by the type of shoe that was available from a shoe manufacture. It was the shape of the early manufactured keg shoes where it all began, trend setting.

As new manufacturing techniques developed, manufactures began producing shoes in a variety of new shapes. The first new style shoes to be offered were front and hind pattern shoes which came out of Europe. American farriers who at the time were taking flack for setting the trend of long toe and low heels, this said to help increase stride, were quick to embrace this convenient way of addressing breakover. This ws the beginning of a new trend, ont that may prove to be just as damaging to today’s horse as long toes and under run heels.

It was the hind pattern shoe that really changed things. The hind pattern shoe was the first readily available shoe to be offered with a square toe. Quickly manufacturers introduced hind shoes with ready-made side clips, and front shoes with toe clips. The front shoe pattern was often rounder than the standard keg shoe that many of the farriers were using at the time. This may have been why some farriers began using hind patterns on the fronts of the horse; this proving to be a simple way of providing a square toe to the front foot, making fitting easier.

Twenty years ago, the square toed horseshoe, was more often viewed as a remedial or corrective type horseshoe. It was not often used as a keg shoe. Prior to being able to purchase the square-toed shoe, the square toe needed to be forged.

Over about a ten year period pattern shoes flooded the market.

American based companies began producing front pattern shoes that were not as round as the European type pattern shoes. These new patterns more closely resembled the traditional keg shoe. With increase in production came price reductions, making it more economical to purchase clipped shoes, rather than forging them. In the mid nineties Eventer-type shoes were introduced. These pattern shoes had a rolled cross section, claiming to aid in breakover, they also came in front and hind patterns.

About the mid nineties, we say increase in the use of the Natural Balance Shoe (NBS), which was fashioned after the footprint of the feral horse. It too had square toe and came in front and hind patterns. Each time a new shoe was introduced, it was accompanied by claims that the shoe aided breakover, and / or provided needed heel support. This is still true today, of most newly developed horseshoes.
So where is all this going?

To the point, shoe manufacturers have been setting trends that influence the way the farrier addresses the foot.

Recently, I have compiled research on a little understood malady that affects many of today’s horses, the black hole seedy toe.

Our research began in 2001, the opening of the International Institute of Equine Podiatry. Inc., since which time we have examined over 1200 hoof cadaver specimens. We observed a dramatic increase in the occurrence of black hole-type seedy toe. Investigation has now provided evidence that suggest that various trimming and shoeing trends could be that cause for this increase in the incidence of this malady.

Our research has shown that more often that not, the black hole is evidence of a Hyper Keratinized Horn mass, located at the creana marginalis of the coffin bone (seen as a notch in the coffin bone). One theory suggests that an abnormal increase in the size of the creana marginalis was likely due to a compromised blood supply. Further studies implicate that the cause of manifestation of the HKH mass at the site of the creana marginalis is stress.

Biopsies were taken from twenty (20) specimen masses and prepared for examination. Opinions gathered from several pathologists were unanimous; the HKH mass was the result of hyperplasia of epithelial cells with keratinization, this likely caused by stress.

Microphotographs of tissue samples from the masses often showed elongated secondary epidermal laminae (SEL); this occurrence has been associated with changes in response to stress.

Measurements were taken of the solar foot print of the twenty specimens from which the masses were harvested. This showed us that the greater the variance in balance, the larger the mass often appeared. The most widespread causes of imbalance were the under run heel, and the creation of excessively short breakover.

The research has allowed us to develop a number of hypotheses.

1. The theory that abnormal increases in the size of the creana marginalis of the coffin bone is the result of a compromised blood supply due to long toes is no longer tenable.
2. Research supports the theory that abnormal increases in the size of the creana marginalis may be nature’s way of increasing surface area in response to increased stress.
3. Evidence supports the theory that stress and the resulting HKH mass is the cause of the enlargement of the creana marginalis of the coffin bone.

Our conclusion are that trends perpetuated by various shoe types and various trimming techniques proposed over the past decade, are responsible for an increase in the development of the HKH mass, and the resulting black hole seedy toe. The majority of the proposed techniques promote dramatic reduction in breakover, which can lead to improper positioning of the coffin bone within the hoof capsule. There are a number of factors that have surfaced, many of which are the result of improper trimming.

What this all means to those of you that have chosen to go shoeless with your horse, is that you should look more closely at the way your horse is being trimmed.

Here are some recommendations that may help in preventing mass growth, and may aid in stabilization of an existing condition.

1. Aggressive rolling of the wall at the toe should be avoided. Avoid dubbing the wall or rockering of the toe into or palmar of the whiteline.
2. Avoid ground parallel coffin bones.
3. Do not lower the heels to the viable (live) sole at the angle of the bar/wall (often results in ground parallel coffin bone).
4. Under run heels do not justify radical break over placement.
5. Treating of black hole seedy toe with topical solutions or soaks will do little to remedy the problem.
6. Balance should be addressed and any cause of stress relieved; this does not mean excessive removal of material at the toe.

This new evidence bring into question the Universal Sole Trim theory, Natural Balance trim, and any other method that may disrupt balance, causing stress at the site of the creana marginalis (tip of coffin bone).

There are far more studies to be done. Immunology studies are underway, and further research into the cause of the HKH mass is ongoing.

About the Author: KC La Pierre, RJF, PhD is the Co-Founder of the Institute of Applied Equine Podiatry, Inc. A professional Farrier for over two decades, a researcher, and educator. KC La Pierre is a proud member of the Guild of Professional Farriers and a traditional Journeyman Blacksmith. Recongnized by many as one of the foremost Applied Equine Podiatrist in the world today. His lectures and teachings have been presented throughout the U.S. and Abroad. His innovative approach to teaching the art of Applied Equine Podiatry has met with rave reviews the world over.

For more information on Applied Equine Podiatry please visit the Institute’s web site at http://www.appliedequinepodiatry.org

For many years skincare has been the sole preserve of the ladies. After all, men don’t need it, do they?

As I came downstairs to breakfast the other day, my wife stroked my cheek lovingly.

‘Your skin is so soft!’ she said almost wonderingly. ‘I really don’t know how you manage it!’

Now my wife is a dear, dear woman but she thinks that a soft skin is only achievable by using amounts of night cream, day cream, anti-wrinkle cream (not that she has any anyway!), protein cream and just about any other cream that the cosmetic companies can dream up.

She, like many other ladies, is convinced that many men have made a pact with the Prince of Darkness in return for facial skin that is not only soft but free from spots and blemishes. I will probably be marked for use as a bridge support filler or receive a nice pair of concrete overshoes from the League For Excessively Scratchy Chins for revealing the truth but I can contain myself no longer: men really do use skincare products!

There. I’ve said it. What a relief to finally ‘come out’ (about men’s skin, that is). The thing that is different about men’s facial skincare and that used by women is that men don’t pay anywhere near as much for theirs – and that’s because men do something to their faces every day that women never, ever do. They shave.

Now I know women shave their legs and sometimes other unmentionable bits. All we men know that. But they don’t do it every day. So why does that make a difference?

Oh, well, the cat’s out of the bag now so I may as well tell you everything. The act of shaving, when done daily, is an excellent exfoliant. A razor doesn’t only take away the stubble from the chins and cheeks of the average male, it also removes quite a few of the old dermal cells. This tends to leave our homely pans soft and smooth – especially if you use (as an increasing number of today’s guys do) a straight razor.

That’s the reason why – when we’re freshly planed off – the facial skin of your everyday male is as soft as a woman’s that has had enough cream on it to make a raspberry pavlova. The only problem is that it doesn’t last. Hence the tendency in recent years for an increasing number of guys to reach for the bottle.

The skincare-for-men bottle, that is. I’m not convinced that I am the first to have uttered this truth as to the original method of skincare for men – shaving – and doubtless the cosmetic companies’ intelligence task force has been keeping their ear well and truly stuck to the floor over the years. So what do we have now? You got it in one – cream for men.

Oh, they don’t call it ‘cream’. Far too girly. It’s called ‘rejuvenating facial cream’ or something equally crafty – it simply wouldn’t do to call it ‘day cream’ or ‘cool night cream’, would it? It’s done like this. After we men have carefully eradicated all traces of stubble, in proper manly fashion with some horribly sharp steel, we are smiled at from some webpage by an incredible hunk with biceps like footballs and a six-pack made of very large ballbearings who suggests that it would be a good idea to – moisturise our skin!

And do you know what the worst thing about it is? Yep. It works. Guess what I got for Christmas last year? Worse still, guess what I bought recently? Resistance, as has been said, was futile.

The male skincare culture steamroller is gathering momentum. We poor males, hapless victims of our own primitive but effective skincare method, have been sucked into mainstream skincare by forces we can hardly comprehend. What happened to the good old days when the only perfume men wore was good, honest sweat and we all changed our socks once a week even if they were reasonably pong-free? When boxer shorts were things boxers wore and after-shave lotion was considered only fit for wearing on a hot date?

Don’t know about you but I sure thank my lucky stars they’re firmly in the past! Now where’s my anti-aging wrinkle-destroying masculine protein emollient?

Steve Dempster is a recent and happy convert to modern men’s skincare and doesn’t mind anymore who knows it. Learn more here about shaving and skincare products for men.

titleChoosing Athletic Shoes – Tips and Tricks/titlepNo matter what your sport is, your athletic shoes are one of the most important pieces of equipment. From tennis to running, basketball to soccer, choosing the right athletic shoes for the right reasons can make a huge difference in keeping your feet and body healthy. Below you will find some of the things you need to consider when choosing shoes for your sport./ppbStyle Is Not Everything/b/ppJust about every day, someone asks me about their shoes. Questions vary from sport to sport, but the fact remains that the majority of people choose athletic shoes based on brand names and styles, rather than what is best for their own feet./ppI know that it can be hard to pass up those awesome looking shoes that match your uniform perfectly, but in the long run, the most important thing is that the athletic shoe serves its function…to support and protect your feet. So, lets take a closer look at what makes a good athletic shoe./ppbThe Heel Box/b/ppWhen I explain shoes to my patients, I always start with the heel box. This is where most people are similar in their needs. A sturdy heel box is essential to help control your rear-foot during athletic activities. The heel box is essentially the back third of the shoe, that surrounds your heel. Most athletic shoes have a heel box made up of leather, and some type of plastic or rubber reinforcement. However, not all athletic shoes are created equal. To test the heel box, try bending it over, or squeezing it in, and see how much resistance you encounter. If you can easily fold over the heel box, then chances are you will not get much support./ppbThe Upper/b/ppThis is the area where most people make the mistake that causes injury. The Upper is the portion of the shoe that surrounds the foot. It is the upper portion of the shoe, from the heel box to the toe box. Uppers can be fashioned from all kinds of different materials, from mesh to leather, and other types of fabrics. Depending on your foot type, you may need more or less support from the upper./ppThis portion of the shoe helps to control the mid and forefoot. Too much motion in these areas will allow for excessive stress through the meta-tarsals and tarsals, and can result in stress fractures, tendonitis, and other problems. To determine what type of foot you have, grab ahold of your foot with both hands, and move it around. Try moving individual bones around…do you find lots of motion, with little resistance, or is your foot very rigid, with little movement. You do not have to be an expert to tell if you have a flexible or rigid foot. Your athletic shoe should be opposite of your foot type. For rigid feet, you can get by with mesh or other light materials for the upper, as you need less support for your foot. For a flexible foot, you should lean more toward a rigid upper, that will control excessive motion and reduce stress./ppbThe Arch/b/ppArch support is essential for good athletic shoes. Even people with good arches, or great feet mechanics should have sufficient arch support. But, arch support is more than just the arch. It is the way that the sole of the athletic shoe is created and constructed that determines the overall characteristics of the arch. And as far as those cushy insoles that they try to upsell you at the shoe store – pass on those as they just add comfort, not support./ppWhen choosing shoes, look closely at the sole of the shoe. A good arch support will be evident by the shape of the shoe. Notice the outline of the sole. There should be a minimal amount of change in width between the toe and the heel. The wider the athletic shoe is at the middle (where your arch is), the more surface area there is to support your foot. So, avoid shoes that start out wide at the toe, narrow way down in the middle, and then flare out again at the heel./ppbChange is Good/b/ppEven the perfect athletic shoe will wear out over time. I have seen quite a few injuries due to old or worn out shoes. Just like any other equipment, you should monitor your shoes, and replace them when they wear out. If you are a runner, monitor your mileage, and replace them as appropriate./ppHow do you know when to buy new shoes? Well, holes, or pieces falling off are generally good indicators…But if it is not that obvious, look for all of the qualities that you used to choose the athletic shoe in the first place. Is the heel box still sturdy? Is the upper as rigid as it needs to be to control your foot? Is the arch still in good shape, or have you worn down one side of the sole? Answer these questions, and inspect your shoes often to keep them protecting your feet./ppbSummary/b/ppGood athletic shoes do not have to be flashy, or expensive to serve their intended purpose. There are lots of shoes out there that will fit both your needs and your budget. Look for all of the right qualities to fit your foot, and you are sure to make a wise decision. And when in doubt? Discuss shoe wear with other athletes, and the sales person at the shoe store. Chances are they have some good insight./ppBarton Anderson is a certified athletic trainer for St. Johns Sports Medicine. He is the creator of a target=_new href=http://www.sports-injury-info.com/ezshoesSports Injury Info/a, and is dedicated to providing sports injury information to his athletes and the public. Barton holds a Masters of Science Degree in Sports Health Care, and is certified by the National Athletic Trainers Association./pbrbr

titlePregnancy Fashion – Underwear and Lingerie/titlepIt may become fairly frustrating, when it comes to finding the right fit of underwear during your pregnancy. Some women may even keep a strangle hold on those tight fitting bras, that just wont work during the last trimester of their pregnancy. However, there is hope when you are shopping to add a little extra something in your wardrobe to accommodate your growing figure. While some women may find that their former bra size and style of bra may fit until they are around six months in the pregnancy, while others may find that they will need a larger size well before that time. One thing to remember is that your rib cage may begin to expand, making a larger size necessary and you are likely to increase by at least two to three cup sizes during your first pregnancy ( In any second or third etc pregnancy, there may be less preparation from your body for nursing). Chances are your breasts may become very large, and you may find yourself uncomfortable in the thought of wearing your older bras still. It is suggested that you may want to switch to a lightweight cotton bra while you are asleep as well as when you are awake./ppWhile most women cringe at actually being measured, it is suggested that you take the time to do so; to insure that the bra will give you the support you need within the last few months of pregnancy and beyond that through nursing. They should be some form of a front opening bra style, which will allow for easy breast feeding or pumping after your child is born. I would strongly suggest that you choose a style that will allow for some extra room, along with wide shoulder straps; which are far more comfortable and supportive than a thin strap. The new bra should be made from cotton or cotton blends, as they tend to feel the coolest and stand up to many washes (as you may begin to leak colostrum before the birth, and milk there afterward; so you will need to wash your bras quite frequently)./ppNow that the bras are out of the way, many women tend to find that they are able to wear their preferred underwear throughout the pregnancy. However if you choose to purchase new panties I would suggest that you go for a tummy bikini style, or a larger stretchy style that can be pulled up over your stomach. Keep in mind also, that if you decide to wear something that rides only half way up your stomach, it may irritate the skin on your abdomen where it is stretched the thinnest. These also have a tendency to roll down at the top which may cause uncomfortable and un flattering bulges. On the same note, if you wear panty hose or tights there is no need to purchase the more expensive maternity wear tights or hose, instead I would suggest purchasing an extra large size that should fit even the biggest of baby bumps. Support hose may ease aching legs especially if your required to be on your feet for a long time, and may also help varicose veins. I would suggest avoiding elastic topped socks as well, as they may hinder blood circulation./ppShopping for a href=http://www.punkbabyclothes.net/shop/index.php?cPath=124_24 target=_blankbaby gifts/a and childrens apparel? Add style to your baby with a designer t-shirt, a black onesie or a funky diaper bag. We carry black baby clothes, rock toddler t-shirts, maternity apparel, punk baby onesies and a href=http://www.punkbabyclothes.net/shop_clothing.html target=_blankmaternity underwear/a. Find the perfect newborn attire or matching mom and baby set for a new mother./pbrbr

titleA Survey of Western Saddle Types/titlepstrongTrail Saddles/strong/ppThe most popular type of saddle, trail saddles are designed for comfort over rough terrain and many miles. Designed for comfort they are lighter than ranch or roping saddles which are designed for heavier work. New materials and features often appear in trail saddles first due to their popularity. Some features include an easy to hold thin horn, a higher fork for stability, a deeply recessed cantle for comfort, wider stirrups treads and padded seats. Rounded or cut out skirts may also be present to further reduce the weight./ppstrongRanch Saddles/strong/ppRanch saddles, also called buckaroo, cowboy or old time are heavy weight saddles designed for heavy work. Made for long hours in the saddle and for functionality around the ranch they may include comfortable deep seats, low swells to be out of the way when working and thick horns. Other features include plate rigging for better strength, a high cantle, double rigging and rope straps./ppstrongRoping Saddles/strong/ppDesigned for freedom of movement these saddles are made for heavy duty. Maximum freedom while roping and chasing cows is ensured by the saddle tree design and the strong horn. A wooden saddle tree covered with bull hide, a rounded low fork, double rigging and a deep suede or rough leather covered saddle all contribute to the ease of use while working. High cantles allow easy mounting and dismounting and the stirrups are forward hung to help the balance./ppstrongCutting saddles/strong/ppFor cutting out single cows from the heard, cutting saddles were developed. A cutting saddle needs to endure good balance for the rider during extreme turning, starting and stopping maneuvers. Features include easy gripping with a tall thin horn, long flat seats, slim stirrups, low cantles and forward hanging fenders for extra balance./ppstrongReining Saddles/strong/ppFor reining sporting events a purpose designed reining saddle is ideal. These saddles need very close contact between horse and rider for ease of execution of circling, spinning and sliding stop maneuvers. Subtle communication between horse and rider is ensured by the close contact which, if properly carried out will not be seen by the spectators. Because of the close contact reining saddles are also popular as training saddles./ppstrongEndurance Saddles/strong/ppFor competitions involving long rides of up to 100 miles, endurance saddles are needed. They must be light weight and well made to stand up to the long miles of riding. Bulk must be minimised while at the same time maximising close contact. In addition for the long hours in the saddle they must be comfortable for both rider and horse. Because they are designed for comfort they are also becoming popular for trail riding. They feature comfortable padded seats, no horns, lower weight short skirts, deep stirrups and multiple saddle strings for your gear./ppstrongShow Saddles/strong/ppShow saddles, unlike the other types are designed primarily for their looks in the horse show arena. Fashion is important and designs change frequently. Ornate and deep tooling and decorative silver ornamentation are used extensively on show saddles. Designed for good looks rather than work these saddles follow fashions and change accordingly. For show saddles the latest fashion is important! Other features include deep skirts for more decoration turned stirrups with silver trims, and padded seats./ppFor more information and some good deals in new and used saddles check out a TARGET=_NEW href=http://www.usedsaddlesale.com/Used Saddle Sale/a or a TARGET=_NEW href=http://www.usedsaddlesale.com/Store/Used-Western-SaddlesUsed Western Saddles/a/pbrbr

When you are going on your honeymoon, no doubt you want to make the time as romantic as possible. You’ll want to have a honeymoon that leaves you with wonderful memories that will last a lifetime. Romantic honeymoons are very possible. To have the most romantic getaway possible, here are a few tips and ideas.

Tip #1 – Get the Special Honeymoon Suite – It is well worth it to stay in a honeymoon suite on the first night of your lives as a married couple. Even if you can only afford to book it for one night. Go ahead and spend the money at least for one night because the lavish suite is something you’ll never forget.

Tip #2 – Go Somewhere New – If you want romance, you need to embrace adventure as a couple. This is a definite way to make your honeymoon even more romantic. Going somewhere new and different will bring the two of you closer together.

Tip #3 – Bring Some Music – For romantic honeymoons, taking along some of your favorite romantic music is a great way to breathe a little romance into the air. Romantic music can get the both of you in the mood for walking on a beach at night, slow dancing, or simply having a romantic evening together. It’s a grand way to set the mood.

Those are just a few of some of the many things couples can do to create romantic honeymoons. Keep a journal to record the special moments, use candlelight, and have some strawberries with wine to set the romantic mood. The most important thing is to be sure that you have wonderful and romantic time as a couple.

Want to make your honeymoon unforgettable? Visit Honeymoon Deals and discover how to have a Disney honeymoon or even a New Zealand honeymoon that you will be talking about for years to come.

After all my hours spent on doing research about what I should feed my baby, I came to this conclusion: There is no one answer. There are lots of decisions to be made when trying to decide how to feed: Do I breastfeed? Do I use formula? If I use formula, should it be milk based or a specialty type? How often do I feed? Etc, Etc. So basically, the goal of this article is just to get all the different types of feeding option out on the table so readers can make an informed decision.

First, many swear by this, and many say it’s just a myth, but breastfeeding should probably be your first option. My wife and I were unable to devote the time necessary to breastfeeding, so we used formula. Breastfeeding is a very time intensive activity, and it will require a lot of patience by the mom, and by the rest of the family, the baby, the job, etc.

When it comes to formula, there are two types: Milk based and specialty based. We used milk based as our child did not have any adverse affects from the basic formula. The specialty brands include organic, soy, lactose-free, hypo-allergenic, low iron and preemie formulations. Luckily for us, and many other parents, baby formula has progressed a long way since it was first produced. Almost all new infant formulas contain DHA (Docosahexaenoic Acid) and ARA (Arachidonic Acid), which are nutrients that are found in breast milk. You need to make sure that the formula has these two nutrients as they are vital for mental and visual development in your child. It is important to follow the instructions provided with the formula. You want to make sure you are feeding your baby the correct amount and not diluting the formula too much. Also, storing of the formula is crucial so please read the directions provided by the manufacturer.

If you have any further questions, please visit my website at http://www.cutebabyaccessories.com where we have more easy to read guides along with great products.

Mark Maloney is the creater and owner of http://www.cutebabyaccessories.com On his website there are many more easy to read articles and products for sale. They specialize in being a one stop shop for all your babies’ needs.

Many people are confused about the aid for the canter. What follows are some common questions about the canter and my answers.

Q. I know to ask for the canter it is outside leg behind the girth and inside leg at the girth, however during the canter is your outside leg supposed to stay back or do both legs then become neutral at the girth once the canter is achieved?”

A.Swing your outside leg back ONCE, and then bring it back to its normal position on the girth. Think of it as a spring-loaded action or a windshield-wiper-like action. If you wait for your horse to answer, he’s not listening to your leg aid. If he doesn’t canter right away, give him a little bump with your outside leg or tap him with the whip. (Carry your whip in the outside hand for the canter work so you can use it to reinforce your outside leg aid.)

As soon as he does the canter depart, reward him.

You can teach him to canter by holding your outside leg back, but when you start doing half passes in the trot, your horse might get confused. He won’t know whether to stay in the trot and go sideways for a half pass or to pick up the canter.

It’s easier to teach him to canter from an aid that ONLY means canter depart than to teach him to canter from that aid and then have to reschool him when you get to trot half passes.

Q. Are you saying that the canter depart is achieved with the legs only? Or, were you just addressing your reader’s concern about her legs? I thought the canter depart was achieved by a slight turn of the wrist on the inside hand, weight on the inside seat bone, AND the windshield wiper outside leg. Is that correct?

A. Yes! I was just addressing her concern about the legs…But you’re right about the rest of the aids. I also push that inside seatbone toward the inside ear and support with the outside rein so I don’t get too much bend in the neck.

Q. How do I use my hands and seat in the canter depart?
What rein aids, if any, should be used?
Do I stay centered with my seat or shift my weight to the inside or outside when I cue for a canter depart?

A.Your weight is on your inside seatbone. When you ask for the depart, push your inside seatbone toward your horse’s inside ear.
Ask for flexion at the poll to the inside with a slight indirect rein aid, but support with the outside rein to keep your horse from over bending his neck to the inside.

Q. How do I keep the canter depart from being hollow?

A. Your horse is perfectly justified in coming off the bit if all you do is give the aid for a transition. To do a transition on the bit, you need to give two sets of aids at once–the transition aid AND the aid to tell him to stay on the bit–the connecting half halt. When you give these two sets of aids at once, you’re telling your horse to “do a transition on the bit”.

* Essentially, you’ll superimpose the connecting half halt over the aids for a transition. That is, you’ll give the connecting half halt before, during, and after the transition.

* In this case, the connecting half halt lasts longer than three seconds. It might even last six, seven, or eight seconds.)

* Apply it lightly before, during, and after the transition so that you “bridge” the transition with your connecting half halt.

* Start the connecting half halt before the transition. (Close both calves as if you’re asking for a medium gait, close your outside hand in a fist to capture and recycle the power back to the hind legs, and vibrate the inside rein to prevent your horse from bending his neck to the outside.)

* Keep giving the half halt while you add the aids for the canter depart.

* AND keep giving the connecting half halt for two or three strides into the next gait.

Q. What aid do I use to go from canter to trot?

A. The primary aid for any downward transition is a “stilled” seat.

* Sit with equal weight on both seat bones, and stretch up tall so you have a gentle curve in the small of your back. I call this posture a “ready” back.

* Brace your lower back in a stopping, non-following or retarding way by tightening your stomach muscles like you’re doing a sit-up.

* When you brace your back, your hips stop following the motion of your horse. Your non-following hips signal him to drop down to the next slower gait.

* To learn the feeling of stopping your hips, simply sit on your horse at the halt. Focus on the immobility of your seat.

* When you ask for a downward transition, mimic the way your seat feels in the halt.

* To practice your stilled seat, pick a point in the ring or on the trail. As you pass this spot, make your body immobile.

Q. How do I keep my horse on the bit during the transition back down from canter to trot?

A. Let’s say you want to do a downward transition from canter to trot on the bit. Remember, if you want to do a transition on the bit, you need to give two sets of aids at once.

* Ask your horse to stay on the bit during the transition by giving the connecting half halt before, during, and after the transition.

* While you’re in the canter, start your connecting half halt.

* After giving the half halt for a couple of seconds, add the aid for the downward transition by tightening your tummy muscles.

* In the beginning, it may take a few seconds for your horse to respond to your seat.

* No matter how long it takes, keep giving the connecting half halt until he listens to your seat and drops into the trot.

* Maintain the connecting half halt until you’re trotting for at least two strides.

Note: If your horse does the downward transition from the half halt itself, you’re either using too much hand and not enough leg or he’s behind your leg. He should wait to do the downward transition until you actually still your seat. The connecting half halt is just for keeping him on the bit. It’s not the aid for the downward transition.

Q. When we’re cantering my lower leg and knee creeps up and my stirrups dangle on my feet (both left and right). What can I do while I’m working alone, which is most of the time, to improve my leg position at the canter? I realize lunge line lessons would improve my position, but that’s not an option right now.

A. It sounds like you’re gripping with your knees and thighs for balance. Think about relaxing your knees and thighs and letting your legs hang loose so that you feel your feet supported by the stirrups. Sally Swift has a great image for this. She says to imagine that your legs are so long that your bare feet are dangling on the ground, and you can feel mud squishing between your toes.

Q. I was initially taught to ask for the canter with the outside leg, as are most people. However, as I progressed in Dressage, I was taught that although my outside leg was behind the girth in the canter transition (to tell the horse which lead I wanted), I actually asked for the canter with my inside leg, at the girth. Is this right?

A. Absolutely. The outside leg tells the outside hind to strike-off. (The outside hind leg needs to strike off first for your horse to end up on the correct lead.)
Your inside leg at the girth tells your horse to go forward into the canter.
So, you do end up using both legs although the emphasis changes from your outside leg to your inside leg as you and your horse become more advanced.

Q. I unconsciously lean forward as I ask for the canter. Should I stay upright? Should I lean back?

A. Stay upright, but push your inside seatbone toward your horse’s inside ear during the depart. As Kyra Kyrklund says: Pretend there are arrows extending down from your seatbones. You’ll push your horse’s hind legs in whatever direction your seatbones are pointed. So when you lean forward, your seatbones point backwards, and that’s the direction you’ll send the hind legs. By pushing your inside seatbone forward, you bring the hind legs with you and underneath your horse’s body.

Are you sick and tired of complicated and confusing training techniques? Are you frustrated by negative emotions like fear and lack of confidence? Would you like to be trained by a Three Time Olympic Coach? Learn how by going to: http://www.janesavoie.com/

The choices of motorcycle jackets available today are varied and plentiful. Styles are as unique as their designers, and modern synthetic materials give the biker an added option over the standard leather jacket, a tried and true material for protection against the elements and the road

When making a decision on the purchase of a new motorcycle jacket, there are basically three areas of consideration that come into play, with various degrees of magnitude:

• the style of jacket preferred by the individual consumer
• the comfort and durability of the style and material used
• protection against the elements of wind, water, and temperature, as well as against the road

By today’s standards, most of the major motorcycle apparel manufacturers have come to agree on a common set of characteristics that tend to the specific needs of bikers as learned over the years. Many of these needs vary with personal taste, and will vary with the type of riding being done, and the individual priorities of the discerning consumer.

To begin with, lets discuss the different styles of motorcycle jackets that have made the biker culture into a sub category of the fashion industry.

For Motorcycle Jackets, Style Counts

While it may seem frivolous compared to the dire consequences of safety and protection, motorcycle fashion has evolved into distinct styles that offer the consumer choices based on just what kind of riding is being done, how often, and in what kind of weather.

As is its nature, the fashion industry has come up with just the right piece of clothing, tailored to fit your kind of riding, and making sure you are looking good doing it! Lets look at some of the general styles available.

The Traditional Classic Motorcycle Jacket

The traditional motorcycle jacket first came on the scene in 1928 in the form of the double sided Perfecto, manufactured by Schott NYC. Through the years the Perfecto style has been improved upon in many ways, but the basic traditional style remains a constant.

The traditional motorcycle jacket has enjoyed wild bouts of popularity in the fashion world.  In 1958 Marlon Brando debuted the style in the film The Wild Ones, and subsequent appearances in films by James Dean and others have brought the jacket in and out of style throughout its history. Perhaps because of the kind of films it was portrayed in, the traditional motorcycle jacket has taken on a somewhat bad boy image, a rebel type personality, or even a criminal element, consequently gaining or loosing cool points, depending on your side of the fence.

While fads and fashion trends go in and out of style, for the biker community, the classic motorcycle jackets popularity is based not on its cool good looks, but on its practicality

Traditional style motorcycle jackets have become classic mainly because the material they are made of, leather, is and remains one of the best form of protection from the elements. More importantly, it provides a second layer of skin between the biker and the rough surface of an asphalt road, reducing the likelihood of painful skin grafts in the event of an unfortunate skid across the road.

Of course, leather jackets can be made into many different styles, but what makes the classic motorcycle jacket unique for bikers is that it tends to the bikers needs. Plenty of storage is provided for with cargo pockets, inside pockets, and the generous use of zippers and snaps in the form of pockets, air vents, sleeve cuffs, and snap downs.

The modern motorcycle jacket is designed with an eye on the various positions a biker might find himself in. Slightly longer arm length provides for a more comfortable ride when leaning forward, and the backs of the jackets provide for some extra length so they dont ride up in the same position.

The option of side laces makes for a snugger, warmer fit in the cold months, and the better traditional motorcycle jackets will have an insulated zip out lining, making it a jacket for all seasons.

One particular aspect of most traditional motorcycle jackets that pretty much defines the look, is the inclusion of a belt. Classic motorcycle jackets that include a belt opt for a half belt more often than not, with a large buckle in the front. Full removable belts complete with belt loops are available on some jackets. Practically speaking, a belt is good for tightening up the jacket, and to keep it from flapping around at high speeds.

Throughout the years, the traditional style motorcycle jacket has catered best to the needs of the biking community by providing a tough and durable jacket that conforms to the unique positions only a biker would find themselves in. With the use of heavy duty hardware, this classic style provides for plenty of places to put things (to counter the lack of such on the motorcycle itself), and includes multiple options for your comfort and protection year round.

Michael Talbert is the creator, owner, and operator of Biker Leather Ltd., an online retailer of fine leather and textile motorcycle jackets, chaps, leather vests and biker accessories. visit the website at http://www.NakedLeatherBiker.com

Having a husband in prison is a stigma in our society. However it is possible to cope and get through this difficult time in your life. Let me help you along the way and give you a few tips.

I myself am a “Prison Wife.” My husband has been in the prison system for the past 22 months. He was first in a minimum security unit, a place called “THE FARM, ” with open doors, and no barbed wire. Now, he is in a half-way house, hoping to come back home the summer of 2005.

The “Prison Wife” is the forgotten one, as she waits at home for her husband. Our society takes care of the sick, the dyimg, the homeless, but the prisoner’s wife is alone and forgotten.

She is faced with insurmountable problems….financial,emotional, psychological, social, stigmatization, health problems to face alone, children to take care of. She keeps the household “together,” until her husband comes home. She works, pays the bills, pays the mortgage or rent, the car payments, insurances. She takes care of the children, repairs for the house, and just about everything else under the sun. Holidays and birthdays come and go. She is alone and lonely, most often faced with depression.
Most find it difficult to even face another day. She lives in hiding because she is afraid the neighbors may find out. So she lies and says he is on a “business” trip, to protect herself…after all, the neighbors would be shocked to know a criminal’s wife lives next door to them. And, what does she tell the children? No one wants to let their child play with a criminal’s child.

When her husband leaves for prison, the wife goes through a period of “grieving.” She goes through the same “grieving process” that a widow goes through. The only difference is that the widow can eventually move on, while the prison wife cannot. The Prison Wife is a “wife,” without a husband. She cannot go out and socialize, and it is difficult to make new friends, as she feels she is being “unfaithful” to her husband.

After a certain amount of time (months or even years), it is acceptable in our socity for the widow to step out, and start dating and even re-marry. The Prison Wife who is faithful and dedicated to her husband does not have this option….some women wait years for their man to return…10 , even 20 or more years.

There are close to 2 million prisoners in our country….that makes me wonder just how many wives and loved ones are left behind and forgotten. We think about the prisoner, but never, ever, think about those left behind…..the wives, the children, the mothers, the girlfriends, to name a few. Those loved ones, who did not commit a crime, except the crime of “loving a criminal.” They did not commit a crime, and yet they are punished.

When their husband goes to prison, they are not notified by the prison system where their husbamnd is. I believe there should be some notification system in this country. The wife must sit and wait, until her husband is able to place a collect call to her.

There should be support systems in this country for prison wives. There should be follow-up programs for families of the incarcerated, to see how they are coping.

I will now give you some tips on how to get through this period of your life. It is from my own personal experience, and I hope it can help you………..after all, just remember, you are not alone……….there are so many of us out there experiencing the same feelings and emotions…the same problems.

“Ways To Cope”

1. Take one day at a time……..Do not think too far in advance. Try to get “through one more day.”

2. Plan small projects for each day, and try to reach a goal. For instance, I put all our photos in photo albums, during the first few weeks of my husband’s incarceration. When that project was complete, I started cleaning out drawers and closets.

3. Organize tour life…………I re-organized bills and mail, using folders and envelopes, and I kept logs, writing everything down.

4. Keep pictures of your husband around the house….I had pictures in every room. I even had one posted on the refridgerator door.

5. Join a church group. I started baking cakes for the monthly cake sale. I enjoyed doing it, and felt I was contributing something to society.

6. Get involved…acquire hobbies. Knitting, needle-point, gardening, writing, keeping a diary….anything. just do something, even if you force yourself to do it. As time goes on, it will get easier, and you will begin to enjoy it. I planted an “Angel Garden,” outside in the yard, with angel statues, and flowers. I also began writing poetry, stories and letters to the editor. I also began writing a journal, which became a very important part of my life.

7. Keep in close contact with your husband….Accept phone calls (if you can afford it, as prison phone calls are extrememly expensive), send your husband letters, cards,magazine and newspaper clippings, and computer print-outs of thingd that interest him. Send him pictures (old and new)…Men in prison love to look at pictures from home. It helps them from becoming homesick. My husband has almost 100 pictures that he keeps in photo albums, and loves to share with the inmates, and show them our family and home. If I change something around in the household,or buy anything new, iI take a picture and send it to him, so he always feels connected to our home. I also tkae pictures of the pets, the garden, and the cars.

8. Keep a notebook near the phone at all times. Jot down things you want to discuss with your husband when he calls. Remember, those are 15 minute calls, and there is a lot to say in a short period of time, so get organized beforehand.

9. Cry when you have to, but also try to stay focused. Do not be torn apart by the prison system. You are still a person, and a wife…and you need to be supportive to your husband.

10. Try to stay healthy. Eat right, avoid junk food and alcohol. Exercise. Try walking. After all, you want to be physically fit when your husband comes home!

I hope this article will be of some help to the wives and loved ones of prisoners, as they await their loved one while he is in prison.

My name is Frances Russo,RN,BSN,MA. I am a retired Registered Nurse,who is now legally- blind , and does free-lance writing, as a hobby. I enjoy writing short stories for magazines and poetry. During my life, I enjoyed education, and international travel, having travelled to 28 countries. I’ve lived in Manhattan, California, Las Vegas, and New Jersey. My husband is currently within the prison system, and I enjoy writing a journal, which has become quite popular. It is called “Reflections Of A Prison Wife.” Please visit my web-site! http://journals.aol.com/crystalmoon222/reflectionsofaprisonwife/

Over 5800 have read my journal, leaving comments and identifying with it. They find strength in my journal. I have recently been interviewed by 2 newspapers, and my story will soon be published , along with photos (ASBURY PARK PRESS AND THE PRESS OF ATLANTIC CITY). My journal is the basis of a book I am writing.